by Ian Froeb
Fried chicken might not inspire as much debate around St. Louis as, say, pizza does, but its many variations have their partisans. I'm fairly ecumenical on the subject. As long as the batter isn't soggy and I can identify which part of the bird I'm eating, I'll happily order any fried chicken and probably love it, from the simple, home-style goodness of Sweetie Pie's to the gnarled batter of Porter's Fried Chicken to my new obsession, peppery "Broasted" pressure-fried chicken at the Pakistani restaurant Café Lazeez.Visit the RFT restaurant page late tomorrow afternoon or check back here Wednesday morning to see what I think.
Young's fried chicken belongs among the area's elite.