by Ian Froeb
You can read the entire article online.Mr. Craft doesn't have a Thomas Keller-size army in his kitchen, but his dishes, while being tasty and well-cooked, do flaunt a surprising amount of hand work. I am thinking in particular of fagottini stuffed with chopped meat from a pork head. The little pastas were in the genre of beggar's purses, pouches filled with meat and gathered at the top. The gatherings looked like doughy blossoms from above.