McCormick & Schmick's Seafood Restaurant announced its arrival in St. Louis in February by installing a giant inflatable crab atop the parking garage at West County Center in Des Peres. The crab, named Jake, overlooked I-270, its claws beckoning drivers below to feast at the first area location of the upscale national chain. I suppose it was cute, or as cute as a crustacean can be. I found it vaguely threatening: All right, you Midwestern rubes. It's time you learn what seafood really is.Check back tomorrow to see what I think.