As someone who both values sustainable local agriculture and reviews restaurants in a market of St. Louis' size, I find myself in a tricky position. There are St. Louis chefs who make a point of forging relationships with nearby farmers, of highlighting seasonal foods; I have celebrated several of them in this space. Yet the majority of restaurants -- the vast, vast majority, from ethnic spots to neighborhood bar and grills to fine-dining spots -- rely on the standard networks of food distribution, and if they serve local produce, it's usually a coincidence of geography, not by design.Check back here tomorrow to see what I think.
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