Maybe I need to take a break from fish and chips.
The specimen in question comes from Molly Darcys
, an Irish pub that opened this September in the Seven Gables Inn in Clayton (26 North Meramec Avenue
). I want to put Irish pub
in quotation marks -- the place looks like it was built from a kit -- but the pub is the sibling of a Molly Darcys in Killarney, Ireland.
At any rate, the menu is mostly sandwiches. There is a daily special, the same each day each week. Thursday is chicken pot pie. I wasn't in the mood for chicken pot pie or a sandwich, so I ordered the fish and chips.
As I said, maybe I need to take a break from fish and chips. It was greasy, but not overly so -- I mean, it's deep-fried fish, after all. The batter was crisp, the cod snow-white and flaky. There was nothing wrong with it, strictly speaking. Yet it had no taste whatsoever and sat in my stomach like a big ball of battered bland.
(Malt vinegar helped, but not much. I didn't touch the tartar sauce pictured. Would you?)
On a related note, Jason Sheehan, the incomparable restaurant critic for our sister paper in Denver, last week wrote his rules for opening a great Irish bar
. I wish he'd shared these with the Molly Darcys people before they hung their Guinness ads on the wall.