Review Preivew: BC's Kitchen



This week, for my final restaurant review of 2008, I visit BC's Kitchen, Bill Cardwell's new venture in Lake St. Louis.

BC's Kitchen is a rarity among the area's better restaurants: You can see it from the highway, as squat and obvious as a Flying J or Cracker Barrel. It emerges from the undeveloped land along Highway 40 west of the Missouri River like some kind of retail mushroom, part of a sprawling new shopping center, one of those outdoor, high-end malls meant to evoke the charms of strolling through a small town's business center, bright but soulless, like a set on a Hollywood backlot for a movie about alien pod beings disguised as chirpy Yankee Candle Co. sales assistants trying to entrap blindly shopping American consumers and eat our brains.

- Ian Froeb