It might seem odd to begin a review with a caesar salad. Even when outstanding, a caesar salad is usually nothing more than a footnote to the rest of one's meal. But as I consider my visits to this six-month-old Clifton Heights restaurant, I keep returning to that caesar.
This week I visit Bartolino's Osteria, the new iteration of an old-school St. Louis restaurant. Check back here tomorrow to see what I think.