There is no elegant way to eat the duck-fat fries. Pluck a single fry from the tangle of very thinly spiral-cut spuds -- with fork or fingers -- and you'll end up with a handful. Share an order with someone else, and the two of you might re-enact Lady and the Tramp, munching on opposite ends of the same crisp, golden shoestring until you meet at the center of the table for a Daffy-flavored kiss.
This week I visit the new Tower Grove East restaurant the Shaved Duck. Check back here tomorrow to see what I think. Also tomorrow: The final edition of Malcolm Gay's Keep It Down.