The first thing you notice about 9th Street Deli's cheesesteak is the cheese. It's a nuclear shade of orange, a color that sticks a knife in the heart of cheesemongers and Slow Food acolytes, but that yours truly -- who is paid to be a snob about such things, after all -- still finds irresistible. The cheese is not merely melting but a luscious liquid ooze.
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