A neon sign hanging in the window of Katie's Pizzeria Café advertises Budweiser "N" pizza. This is, technically, true. You can order both a Bud and a pizza at the three-month-old restaurant. But if you expect Katie's to be a typical beer 'n' pizza joint, especially in the cracker crust-and-Provel St. Louis style, you'll be surprised, maybe even a little disappointed. A more telling advertisement might be the sculpture of a giraffe on the lawn of the business next door: unexpected, different, funky. Even if it's not your thing, you'd have to be a real sourpuss to dismiss it out of hand.
This week I visit the first of several new pizzerias to open in St. Louis this year, Katie's Pizzeria Café. Check back here tomorrow to see what I think.