The Top Ten Dishes of 2007: #4

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This week I'm counting down my ten favorite dishes of 2007 -- and the absolute worst thing I ate all year.

#4. Pasta at Acero

Another spot where the menu changes frequently, but you can't go wrong with the pasta at Jim Fiala's contemporary Italian restaurant. Of those I tried this spring, the best was a single raviolo, about the size of an egg and containing -- surprise! -- a poached egg. The raviolo was surrounded by a swirl of puréed spinach. Also good was linguini tossed with chopped tomatoes, onions and guanciale, cured pork jowls. The guanciale gave the dish an extraordinary depth of porky flavor, with a definite edge of heat.

-- from "Paradise Lust" (May 31, 2007)

Acero 7266 Manchester Road, Maplewood 314-644-1790

-Ian Froeb

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