One of the great things about reviewing restaurants for Riverfront Times -- as opposed to other publications, that is, in St. Louis or elsewhere -- is that I don't have to assign stars or letter grades or whatever to the places I visit. I find the practice reductive. I mean, it's obvious that, say, the Cherokee Street taqueria La Vallesana isn't a "four-star" dining experience, but as I wrote in my review of La Vallesana ("Cherokee Pastoral," July 11, 2007), if I weigh cost against benefit, it might be my favorite restaurant in town.
On the other hand, a rating system would solve my Niche problem -- albeit simplistically.
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