Chef Matt Rolens does try to broaden the standard St. Louis bistro repertoire. You still won't find veal sweetbreads -- or offal of any sort -- at most area bistros. As an appetizer, Rolens serves a fricassee of sweetbreads, chanterelle mushrooms and peas over polenta. Yet this dish could stand in for most of the problems I found at Bistro Alexander.
This week I try to review the new Clayton restaurant Bistro Alexander. Why do I say "try to review"? Check back here tomorrow -- or pick up a hard copy of the new RFT -- to learn the answer.