This crab was a fat Dungeness, sitting in an orange-red sauce studded with whole chiles, bright red and dangerously small. When I turned the crab over to reach its apron — essentially the shell's handy pull-tab — I saw the kitchen had done the work for me.
Why wouldn't I want the kitchen to clean my crab for me? And what's more painful than a cut from a jagged crab shell? Learn the answer to these questions and more in this week's review.