Dolce' opened in October of last year, with a menu devised by co-executive chefs Jeff Thomas and Darrin Conarroe. That menu is nearly as difficult to explain as the apostrophe at the end of Dolce'. It's Italian, essentially, though not in the conventional sense. You can have osso buco, carpaccio and calamari, but you'll find only one pasta dish, linguini pescatore, amid interlopers like oyster "shooters" with chipotle aï¿½oli and pork ribs in a roasted hoisin sauce. The Italian dishes have a specific regional focus (and an uncommon, potentially fascinating, one at that: Sicilian), but this manifests itself mainly in meats coated with seasoned bread crumbs.
What is the deal with Dolce's menu? And will I figure out what that apostrophe is doing there? Find the answer to at least one of these questions in this week's review.
Support Local Journalism.
Join the Riverfront Times Press Club
Local journalism is information. Information is power. And we believe everyone deserves access to accurate independent coverage of their community and state. Our readers helped us continue this coverage in 2020, and we are so grateful for the support.
Help us keep this coverage going in 2021. Whether it's a one-time acknowledgement of this article or an ongoing membership pledge, your support goes to local-based reporting from our small but mighty team.
Join the Riverfront Times Club for as little as $5 a month.