Dolce' opened in October of last year, with a menu devised by co-executive chefs Jeff Thomas and Darrin Conarroe. That menu is nearly as difficult to explain as the apostrophe at the end of Dolce'. It's Italian, essentially, though not in the conventional sense. You can have osso buco, carpaccio and calamari, but you'll find only one pasta dish, linguini pescatore, amid interlopers like oyster "shooters" with chipotle aï¿½oli and pork ribs in a roasted hoisin sauce. The Italian dishes have a specific regional focus (and an uncommon, potentially fascinating, one at that: Sicilian), but this manifests itself mainly in meats coated with seasoned bread crumbs.
What is the deal with Dolce's menu? And will I figure out what that apostrophe is doing there? Find the answer to at least one of these questions in this week's review.