De Palm Tree

Easton and Tammey Romer's addition to Olive Boulevard's ethnic restaurant row is jammin', from the Jamaican specialties to the endless loop of Bob Marley concert videos on the dining-room TV. A native of Jamaica who came to St. Louis in the late 1980s, Easton makes his jerk rub fresh, and it shows: pungent, citrusy and spicy. Jamaica's South Asian influence is present in the mildly spiced golden sauces that blanket shrimp, chicken or goat curries. There's fish, of course -- from simple grilled salmon to vinegary escovetch whole red snapper (and a spicier version that's steamed in a tomato-based sauce, then baked). You won't be able to get enough of the banana rum fritters -- but the Red Stripe is abundant.